Travel | 旅游

California. Yosemite.

2016 May. Yosemite National Park

Yosemite National Park is set within California’s Sierra Nevada mountains, famous for its gorgeous waterfalls, giant ancient sequoias, iconic vistas, deep valleys, grand meadows, and the granite cliffs of El Capitan and Half Dome. This is an extremely popular national park and packed with people, to the extent you will experience traffic jams and queues for a parking lot within the Yosemite Valley, where all the action concentrates. However once you get past that, and get onto the hiking trails, the views and scenery made it all worth it. Rocks, water, trees, and a combination of these, set against the blue sky, present a picturesque and stunning landscape that you will never forget.

Day 1

The marvel of Yosemite’s landscape begins once you exit Tunnel View, and greeted with a panoramic view of the valleys and mountains. Of course, that would also be your first encounter with the crowds that flock to Yosemite. 🙂

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Tunnel View
Tunnel View

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Bridalveil Fall Trail

A short drive from Tunnel View, Bridalveil Fall Trail is an easy and flat 800m paved trail that will bring you from the parking lot to the base of the waterfall. The wind and mist from the water splashing downwards would refresh and wake you up immediately from the fatigue of travelling. Bring an umbrella or put on your rain gear, you will get wet for sure if you want a picture near to the waterfall.

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Bridalveil Fall
Bridalveil Fall

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We drove around Yosemite Valley to familiarise where things are, but the one-way loop system for the Southside Drive and Northside Drive is a nightmare and extremely confusing. Some parts are randomly two-ways and it does not help when signages are not clear and traffic was packed. Took me 3-4 days, after making numerous wrong turns and circling the Valley, before I figured out how the road works. Another possibility is to make use of the free shuttle bus service that circle around Yosemite Valley and bring visitors to the trailheads and viewpoints.

Valley Loop Trail

We decided to take it easy and do a moderate hike for the first day. This is a flat but long trail (11.6km half loop or 18.5km full loop) which will take 2.5-7 hours. The trailhead starts from Lower Yosemite Falls area, the half loop crosses Merced River at El Capitan Bridge and returns to Yosemite Village, wheres the full loop continues past El Capitan towards Bridalveil Fall crossing the river at Pohono Bridge to return to Yosemite Village.

We wanted to see El Capitan first, so we drove to a small parking area and walked to the base, where rock climbers scale the vertical face of El Capitan. Most people would probable have no sense how immensely huge this rock is, until you see the tiny little dots on its surface which happened to be the rock climbers! Try spotting them in the pics.

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El Capitan
El Capitan

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Pohono Bridge
Pohono Bridge

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Dogwood Trees in bloom
Dogwood Trees in bloom

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It was a really long hike before we managed to find our car and drove to the Housekeeping Camp to spend the night. Although check-in efficiency and service quality was almost non-existent, I was still glad that I chose to stay here rather than Curry Camp which was terribly congested and packed like sardines. Out of sheer luck, I was eventually re-assigned to campsite #504 at the river bend (initial site given to us did not have its own fire ring) which turned out to have the best view of the entire campground in my opinion. Travel tips: Request for site #507 or #504 when you make your online reservation way in advance, and you will not be disappointed.

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Housekeeping Camp
View from our campsite at daybreak.

Day 2

Mist Trail + Vernal & Nevada Falls Trail

After rested well for the first night, we attempted this gorgeous but strenuous  trail which was approx. 8.7km long, with elevation change of 610m, that would take 5-6 hours roundtrip. I strongly recommend this as THE hike to attempt if you have limited time in Yosemite. The views are awesome, but be prepared for slippery footing and waterfall spray, as well as steep switchbacks.

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Click here for VIDEO of Vernal Fall

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After reaching the top of Vernal Falls, we continued to hike further up towards Nevada Falls.

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From the top of Nevada Falls, instead of going back down the same way, we decided to take an alternate hike along part of John Muir Trail down to Yosemite Valley.

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We visited the Majestic Yosemite Hotel (formerly The Ahwahnee). Would cost a bomb to stay here, so we had dinner here instead. The best thing is the hotel lobby has free wifi connection! The only other spot I found that had wifi was the cafe in Yosemite Village. Elsewhere in Yosemite, there is just no reception even though we had a roaming device and data plan from T-Mobile. Not a bad thing to immerse yourself fully in nature and forget about internet and the outside world.

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Saw this little creature when we got back to Housekeeping Camp, completely oblivious to the car headlights and continued its food search. Throughout the night, other wildlife were also actively making noises and running all over the campsites. That is the magic of camping in nature!

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 Day 3

Mirror Lake Trail

We hike the Mirror Lake Trail early the next morning. The trailhead, similar to Mist Trail, is at Happy Isle near Half Dome Village (formerly Curry Village). The trailhead parking lot has limited capacity and gets filled up quickly, after which the road would be closed. You can either take the free park shuttle, or plan to arrive early, if you do not want to trek all the way from Half Dome Village. Mirror Lake Trail is an easy hike (3.2km to the lake and back, or 8km loop around the lake) which will take you 1-4 hours.

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After the morning stroll at Mirror Lake, we drove to Sentinel Bridge to take in views of the Half Dome. Took us 3 days wondering where and driving around trying to locate it before realising “Oh, so that is the Half Dome”.

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Views of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls
Views of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls

We spent the rest of the morning at Housekeeping Camp, checking out the surrounding area which is also very scenic. We really enjoyed our “luxury camping” here. No setting up of tent needed, the “tent” had a queen and a double-deck single beds, under three-sided concrete structure with a canvas roofs and privacy curtains. There is even a sandy beach by the river across the footbridge. You will also have unmatched views of Yosemite while you relax by the campfire ring.

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Lower Yosemite Fall Trail

Taking it easy for the day resting from the day before and preparing for the next, we took a short and easy 30min hike of 1.7km to the base of Lower Yosemite Fall, which had spectacular views of both the Lower & Upper Yosemite Falls.

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At the Cook’s Meadow near Lower Yosemite Fall, you get a good view of the Half Dome. The views in Yosemite are so beautiful everywhere, even when just driving around in the Valley.

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Sentinel Dome Trail

This is a hike not within the Yosemite Valley but accessed from Glacier Point Road, which is usually closed from Nov to May. Luckily for us, the road was recently opened when we visited, and there is still snow! The Sentinel Dome Trail is a moderate level hike of 3.5km roundtrip that will take around  2 hours. The 360 degree panoramic view of the Yosemite mountains and valleys when you get to the top of Sentinel Dome is absolutely breathtaking. Simply stunning and not to be missed!

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After the hike to Sentinel Dome, we drove to the road end Glacier Point for the famed sunset view of the Half Dome.

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Spent the next 2 nights at Big Trees Lodge at Wawona near the Mariposa Grove. Not much to do there as Mariposa Grove was closed for rehabilitation.The Lodge is overpriced but very basic, and far away from the trailheads and activities. If I could replan my trip, I would rather stay all 4 nights anywhere within Yosemite Valley where all the action is.

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Day 4

Upper Yosemite Fall Trail

As there is not much to do at Wawona, we drove back to the Valley and attempted a strenuous hike up the Upper Yosemite Fall and Columbia Rock. This is a very tough and long hike of 12km that will take 6-10 hours roundtrip. The challenge was in scaling an elevation change of 790m, via numerous switchbacks and without much shade. Make sure you bring more than enough water. We underestimated and were half dead by the time we completed the trail.

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Saw a wolf at the parking lot when we finished our exhausting hike, which got us excited right away. After a long tiring and thirsty day, all we want to do is drive back to Big Trees Lodge and treat ourselves to a cold beer and proper food at a restaurant.

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Day 5

For the last day in Yosemite, as the Toga Road was still closed for the season, we drove to the Tuolumne Grove to see the giant dead sequoia with a stagecoach-sized tunnel cut through it.

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Other than the few giant sequoias, there is not much to do here. We drove to explore the Hetch Hetchy Valley in the quiet northwest corner of Yosemite. The O’Shaughnessy Dam upon arrival did not look very scenic initially. A walk through the tunnel and along the reservoir, we realised the views were actually quite beautiful. But the tedious Upper Yosemite Fall climb the day before had worn us out, so we did not explore very far into the trail.

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After Hetch Hetchy, we decided that our 5-day 4-night Yosemite National Park visit is finally complete. 🙂

… to be continued …

Click on link below to read next blog…

California. Napa.

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