2017 Jun. Kushiro. Lake Akan. Higashimokoto. Shiretoko. Abashiri.
This is a highly anticipated self drive trip in Hokkaido to experience the beautiful countryside and eat the delicious seafood and dairy desserts I have been hearing about Hokkaido for years. Early June is not the typical tourists’ choice to visit, but it is the only window that fits my schedule, so I planned around to make the most out of it. This travel window should be useful to those with schooling children in Singapore, as it coincide with June holidays. My full itinerary is attached at the end this 3-part blog, in case you find the info useful as reference.
Kushiro 钏路
After picking up our rental car in Sapporo city centre in the morning, we took a long drive to Kushiro and stopped for lunch in Obihiro 帶廣, famous for its pork glazed in special sauce. We had buta don and tonkatsu at Yuutaku 十勝豚肉公房. The meat was thick and juicy, very fulfilling. Apparently there is another famous restaurant call Butadon, online reviews are mixed. I only tried one, so can’t recommend which is better but I am sure they both taste good.
Upon reaching Kushiro, we walked around the small city but there is not much to do. We checked in to a simple hotel Axia Inn and the room smelled terrible, so I won’t recommend staying there. Nusamai Bridge is a scenic spot in the city, where you can catch views along the river, and the glorious sunset.
Chanced upon the open air Ganpeki Robata under the tentage, which is only open from mid May to end October every year. Guests get to choose and grill the seafood by themselves. Its location along the river next to Fisherman’s Wharf MOO provides the perfect setting to enjoy cool breeze and fresh seafood while gazing at Nusamai Bridge. Great local ambience and feel, interesting experience to dine here.
Strolled around Kushiro in the morning enjoying the brisk and cool weather, but there is really not much to see, other than the local playground and grocery store.
A visit to the Kushiro Washo Market 釧路和商市場 to eat Katte Don 勝手丼 is definitely a must if you pass by Kushiro! You purchase a bowl of rice, then shop around the stalls to select your favourite ingredients as toppings. But do note the prices, and decide how deluxe you would like your bowl to be. Once done with the selection, you can sit down and enjoy the meal. The seafood is superbly fresh and awesome! Kushiro has the reputation as the epicentre of best seafood in Hokkaido and Japan, I’m convinced. Opens from 8am onwards.
After a hearty and fantastic breakfast, we visited the Kushiro Wetlands, which consist of several scenic viewing spots over a big vast area.
Wildlife sighting as we hiked out into the scenic marshland loop. I was actually hoping to see the famed cranes of Kushiro in their wild habitat, but unfortunately we had no luck.
So instead, we drove nearby to Kushiro Tanchozuru National Park to see the Japanese red crowned cranes, the traditional symbol of both longevity and Japan. The cranes live behind fences, but apparently the fences are meant for people, and the cranes are free to leave anytime. The birds looked gorgeous and elegant, nice views up close.
Lake Akan 阿寒湖
We moved on to Lake Akan after Kushiro, and booked a traditional room at Tsuruga Wings, a nice big hotel with good views and elaborate onsen. Tea set with snacks awaited us upon check-in, which was a nice touch.
We took a boat ride out to Lake Akan to take in the scenic sights, including a stop on Churui Island, and saw the super cute Marimo balls at the Observatory.
After the boat ride, we enjoyed the relaxing outdoor onsen on the hotel rooftop before going to dinner, which was included in the room price. Never thought I would be in love with hotel buffet again after my twenties. Oh my mY MY, the fresh raw unshelled botan ebi prawns are humungous and absolutely delicious! Dinner is so good, and breakfast too, ahhh I was in food heaven! I was totally engrossed in feasting and stuffing myself silly, and forgot to take any pictures! Expensive hotel stay, but worth it. So if you are selecting a highlight stay to splurge on, trust me and pick this one.
The serene and peaceful lake early in the morning sans any tourist, is so charming and a precious sight to behold.
Lake Mashu 摩周湖 & Lake Kussharo 屈斜路湖
We continued our journey after the super sumptuous buffet breakfast spread at Tsugura Wings, and drove to Lake Mashu and Lake Kussharo to take in more scenic views.
Sanuya 砂汤 is an interesting attraction at Lake Kussharo, where you can dig a hole and hot water will rise up from the beach to form your own onsen or footbath. This place is always open and free, with shovels available on site for digging.
The Bihoro Lookout along Route 243 was beautiful, with freezing strong winds when we were there. Ate a so-so lunch at the cafeteria, before we continued the drive to Higashimokoto, the special seasonal highlight of this trip!
Higashimokoto 東藻琴
May/June is probably not the typical high season to visit Hokkaido, but this is the only time to see shibazakura. We may have missed the bloom at its peak by a week at Higashimokoto Shibazukura Park 東藻琴芝櫻公園, but the pink moss are gorgeous nevertheless. Definitely a highlight to plan for during this time of the year.
Shiretoko 知床
We continued the drive to Shiretoko in the late afternoon to spend the night. Along the coast, we stopped by the Oshinkoshin Falls.
Finally reached our accommodation Guesthouse Lantan, near to the Shiretoko World Heritage Centre, where we managed to get some basic info, and noted that in order to visit the Five Lakes in Shiretoko National Park, you MUST make a prior reservation and hire a licensed guide.
Dinner was included in the room price for the guesthouse, as there were limited dining options in the vicinity. Food was alright, can’t expect much in a remote area.
Had our breakfast at the guesthouse before heading to Shiretoko National Park. We were lucky enough and managed to hire an english speaking guide at short notice with the help of the guesthouse so that we can visit the Five Lakes.
Our guide spoke good english and gave us a good tour of the Five Lakes. Unfortunately there was no bear sighting during our hike. We walked through Shiretoko in the rain.
After that we drove around Shiretoko National Park and visited the Kamuiwakkayu Falls, and the Kumanoyu Onsen near Rausu.
We had lunch at Michi-no-Eki which is the roadside rest area in Rausu. Also a good place to shop and buy some local seafood products or souvenirs. I happily packed a lot of foodstuff to bring home from here.
Abashiri 網走
After Shiretoko National Parks, we drove to Abashiri and checked in to Dormy Inn Abashiri. I love this chain hotel, great value for money. The room is nice and comfortable with a decent view, and the hotel has a small but tasteful onsen with oranges in the morning. It even serves complimentary coffee in lobby and ramen for supper! Breakfast is also very good.
Dinner was at Yakiniku Abashiri Beer Kan, as we were unable to get a seat at a local sushi place. Decent food but nothing outstanding.
Stopped by the Kitahama Station in the freezing weather. The station is located right next to the sea, and the waiting room is full of travelers’ commuter passes and business cards.
Cape Notoro 能取岬 is a beautiful place with tranquil hills, ocean waves crashing on the rocks, and the lone light house overlooking the Okhotsk Sea. This is also where 非诚勿扰 was filmed. Weather was freezing cold in the light rain in early Jun when we were there. So wet and freezing cold that even taking a hand out to snap picture with my phone hurts…
After Abashiri, we were ready to drive towards Furano and Biei. Along the way we passed by Kitami, which is a populous commercial centre good for stocking up food or supplies. Route 39 is a scenic drive with a few attractions along the way.
to be continued…
Part II: Hokkaido – Central Region
