2019 Feb & Jul. Medellin. Colombia.
Work brought me to Medellín. Over 2 trips within the same year, the city and people of Medellín truly amazed and impressed me immensely. Everyone needs to hear about Medellín’s inspirational transformation story, on how the world’s murder capital in the 1990s was reborn into a charming, inclusive, positive and aspirational city, constantly striving hard to change and improve itself today.
Travel time from Singapore to Medellín via London and Bogota was almost 36 hours. Upon arrival in the morning local time, I was no longer sure whether I was really awake, tired, or hungry. Took a walk out to find lunch and saw the Sunday car-free road closure with people walking and cycling on the streets, and a farmer’s market by the park.
Had lunch at Modongo’s to try the Colombian traditional dish Bandeja Paisa, and then dinner at Malevo. Other than meal time, it was nap time throughout the day to sleep away the jet lag.
Work meetings and site visits started the next day, and I caught a glimpse of the urban life walking around the downtown area in Medellín.
Salon Malaga is an old school place for coffee and/or tango. I would love to visit in the evenings to experience the music and local vibes, but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to do that. It would have been super awesome I am sure.
A walk around El Centro area, with bustling downtown city vibes.
I was so excited when I got here! This is Plaza Botero, or to me… Botero heaven as I am a huge fan. There are 23 Botero sculptures on display here. I only wished I had more time to slowly admire and appreciate every single art piece, as it was a very rushed site visit to recce the location.
Junin Street, the pedestrian corridor that connects La Playa with Parque Bolivar, is the epicenter of cultural exchange and one of the most loved passages by locals, being one of the first streets in Medellín.
We stopped at Astor for a traditional snack and drink. Food always make me happy.
I was told that this is a classic restaurant that serves good traditional dishes. Being a foodie, I was really tempted and wanted to find time to come here on my own, but unfortunately that didn’t happen.
Had a quick but nice lunch at Mulata Criolla in between meetings. The salad and fried pork called chicharron was delicious.
Visited one of the UVA or Life Articulated Units. The programme is a project where citizens of Medellín are actively involved in the building of localised sports, recreational and cultural venues.
Utility water tanks that occupied previously inaccessible land and located near existing communities were converted into communal uses that host activities decided and managed by communities themselves, giving them a sense of ownership. Walls around the water tanks were torn down to allow access, and improved security.
Today, each tank forms part of a network that validates Medellín’s interest in repurposing the places that were once centres for violence and conflict.
Breakfast spread in Marriott (above), and a very nice lunch at Restaurante La Provincia (below).
February work trip was very packed and rushed and I did not get to see much of Medellín at all. But I was lucky to be back in July again for a longer stay, to experience more of what Medellín had to offer, which was nothing less than amazing.
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For July trip, I already knew what to expect for the long haul multi flights… lots of walking just to transit in London Heathrow, and a comfy little cove in Avianca Lounge in Bogota Airport to look forward to, where I can lay flat and stretch.
Arrived on a Sunday morning again and saw many cyclists on the country roads. Stopped by a lookout point to take in the magnificent view from a high vantage point. Hello again… Medellín!
Could not be happier to see a comfy bed upon check in. After a short nap, I went out for good local food. Did my homework this time, and found this modest local restaurant within walking distance from hotel that served the best Ajiacos and Mondongos. No prize for guessing what I ordered. Yup, EVERYTHING on the menu! 🙂 Hearty and flavourful soup, best recovery food after a super long flight.
The place is only opens for lunch and hugely popular with locals, with only 3 items on the menu. When food is that good, no need for variety.
Started work the very same day we arrived, amazing energy by all the artists… orz! It was a community arts project to paint a 100m long mural, led by Singaporean artist Sun Yu-li, in collaboration with Colombian local artists and community participants. The mural along the very busy Calle 10, or 10th Street was a sideline event to commemorate Medellín, the laureate city for 2016 LKY World City Prize, hosting WCS Mayors Forum 2019. The city administration wanted to involve the local community and leave behind a legacy for the event.
The picture below showed the wall back in Feb, now ready for fresh artwork and a new lease of life. The mural painting took 4 days to complete, and artists, locals, and anyone who walked past, including many tourists, joined in to paint whatever they like. The mood was fun and uplifting under the hot sun, and the energy was infectious.
The event attracted a lot of local’s attention and many stopped by to check it out, including the media. It was huge success, thanks to the team working behind the scene for months and artists coming together to make this happen. Special shout out to Sandra, Maria, Juliana, Catalina and Daniel!
While the wall mural painting was ongoing, another art jamming collaboration with artists collective Deúniti was also happening concurrently at the event location at Plaza Major. Groups of students of various ages participated on different days to paint with the artists and had a blast! The final artwork looked amazing, of cos!
Managed to squeeze a few hours in between painting to take the cable car up the hill slopes of Medellín. We walked to take the tram and then transferred to cable car to Villa Sierra. Public transportation was the key game changer that transformed Medellín, enabling access and brought security to poor neighbourhoods with regularised informal housing up the hillsides.
Signature views of the hillsides in Medellin. The Metrocable played an important role in encouraging social inclusion and integration, connecting poor and previously unsafe neighbourhoods on the hillsides – literally and figuratively – to the lifeline of the city and all of its economic, educational and cultural opportunities.
A nice quick working lunch in town at La Tienda Del Vino Restaurante. Chicharron, is the Colombian deep fried version of our beloved ‘sio bak’ back in Singapore, yummy! Love for fatty pork transcends boundaries, around the world. 🙂
Another good lunch near 10th street at La Matriarca. Nice casual setting, and delicious food.
The welcome reception was held at Plaza Botero and Museo de Antioquia, such an awesome location to spend the evening, and I got to enjoy the beautiful sculptures and paintings by Botero.
Reception on the following evening was at Jardin Botanico, also a beautiful setting.
Felt that I have not seen enough of Medellín. But the only time I could squeeze out was early morning before work commitment began at 8.30am. Found out the metro operates from 4:30am, so I woke up really early to head out and explore on my own everyday. Great experience to see and feel the local vibes and tempo.
On another day, I took the train and Metrocable to La Aurora, another residential community along a different line. Seeing the long queues and crowd utilising the Metrocable during morning peak commuting hours moved me. I saw with my own eyes how the impact of public transportation had changed the lives of so many living in less privileged hilly areas. The creative solution of utilising cable car system, commonly associated with ski resorts, as public transportation for the masses had linked Medellín’s underdeveloped suburbs to the city centre.
Facilities next to La Aurora metro cable station, with good views from the hospital building.
I knew it would be my biggest regret to come around the globe to Medellín twice but not visit Comuna 13, so I made sure I found my own way here on another early morning. Comuna 13 used to be the most notorious and dangerous neighbourhood plagued with drugs and gang wars, but is now transformed into a place of optimism, full of beautiful street art and friendly people.
Street art and murals are everywhere adding colours to the neighbourhood. Very vibrant and gorgeous!
This giant 384m orange-roofed escalator scaled the hillside of Commune 13 in six sections, each journey taking just 6min. The steep terrain on the hillsides made it impossible for vehicular access. Comuna 13 used to be an isolated and poor neighbourhood plagued with violence, and once a stronghold for guerrillas and drug traffickers. But with urban planning intervention and innovative transport solution, the control is back in the community’s hand. Opened in 2011, the development has now become a model for urban planning around the world.
The views from Comuna 13 early in the morning.
Saw this roadside stall selling empanadas when rushing back to hotel to start work. Looked really good and bought one to try. Wow, it was delicious, even better than hotel breakfast!
On the last day and on route to the airport, we took public transport Metrocable to Arvi, in St Elena.
There is a small weekend market next to Arvi station. Parque Arvi is also located here, with walking and hiking trails for recreation use.
We visited a flower farm in Santa Elena and experienced how a traditional silleta is made. Beautiful culture in Medellin! Silletas are the exaltation and preservation of the form of transport that was used in the colony to cross the Andean heights, and symbol of courage, resistance and human capacity to overcome and dominate the environment.
Medellín holds a huge Festival of Flowers every year and the highlight event is the unique parade Desfile de Silleteros where paisas of all ages carry silletas on their backs for hours. It is a celebration of paisa culture, and the most important social event for the city of Medellín.
The hands-on experience of making a silleta was indeed a really beautiful finale to my Medellín trip. Seeing the amazing physical transformation of the city, and meeting its hardworking people with big hearts to forgive violence of the past, working hard to stay positive, improve, and transform lives together, left a huge impression in me. The spirit of the city and people is just amazing, and for that, Medellín will always have a special place in my heart.
