2019 Dec. Los Glaciares National Park. El Chalten. El Calafate. Patagonia. Argentina.
Part 2 of my Patagonia adventure continued, in Argentina. Bus ride from Puerto Natales across the border to El Calafate took 5 hrs, then another 2.5 hrs car ride to El Chalten. El Chalten is a tiny tourist mountain town within the Los Glaciares National Park near the base of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy spires. It is 220km north of El Calafate, and a popular base for hiking numerous trails to the base of surrounding peaks and glacial lakes, such as Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre.
Our dinner at La Tapera on Christmas Day was awesome, and deserved special mention! The steak was marinated and rustically grilled to perfection with flavourful chimichurri seasoning on the slightly charred crust, moist and tender on the inside, hitting exact medium rare doneness, with just the right amount of fat trimming on the edge. The portion was humungous and the price unbelievably reasonable. It was so delicious, that we went back again specially for the steak. I am salivating once again as I describe the unforgettable meal. Move aside US prime beef and Japanese wagyu, Argentinian beef is now my new favourite!
I did not realise there were 2 more full days of 21km hike AGAIN!!! awaiting me in Argentinian Patagonia after W Trek. Clearly I did not read the details of my itinerary carefully enough, more hardcore trekking after a short break on Christmas Day. I could hardly walk or stand straight in the wind by this point, and thought to myself I had done enough hiking and seen enough glaciers for this trip. But having gone through the trauma back in Santiago, I was determined to make the most out of this trip and soldiered on.
Day 1 in Los Glaciares National Park was a guided hike to Laguna de los Tres, 21km roundtrip with 730m ascent in about 9 hrs. Entrance to Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina is free and does not require any permit, unlike Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. The trail started with an open terrain, before crossing a dense forest of lenga trees, and then opening up to nice glacier views.
The trail went deep into the forest before reaching the Poincenot campsite.
From here onwards, the route climbed steadily and steeply to the lake. Some parts gain height zigzagging along the slope, further up a rocky section. Near the destination, tough stretch with more steep slopes to advance through a bare terrain directly towards the lake.
Finally reached Laguna de los Tres, which supposedly has the most spectacular view of Fitz Roy, but was covered by clouds. Laguna de los Tres is an emblematic and must visit to El Chaltén, as it is possible to appreciate different glaciers from the beginning of the trek.
Few steps away, there is another lake on a different level with different colour. Quite an interesting sight. Climbed the small hill on the left of Laguna de Los Tres, and there was a good view of Laguna Sucia right next to Laguna de Los Tres.
Video clip of Laguna de Los Tres and Laguna Sucia on different levels
After enjoying the views and taking a short break at the 2 lakes, we continued trekking and climbed down toward the direction of Laguna Capri.
It began to rain when we reached Laguna Capri. Really need to be always prepared for all weather conditions when trekking in Patagonia, both in Chile and Argentina even although the climate is somewhat different with the Chilean side getting much more rain from the Pacific Ocean.
The trail ended in the northern end of El Chalten as we exited the National Park. My feet were hurting and I could barely walk properly, trailing behind the group in a distance. After cleaning up in hotel, we had dinner at Techado Negro, another recommended restaurant. Food was ok but nothing near as good as La Tapera the night before.
Day 2 of the guided trek was to Laguna Torre, also 21 km long roundtrip and estimated to take about 7 hrs. I seriously considered sitting out for this trek as I could hardly walk normally. In the end I decided to just follow and try my best and to turn back when I feel I could not go on anymore. The day started miserably wet with rain again. Luckily the ascent for this hike is only about 250m and mostly right at the trailhead starting in El Chalten.
From the first viewpoint Mirador Margarita, the hike is mostly on a flat path, with occasional up and down sections.
It was wet and freezing cold when we reached Laguna Torre, not much of a view due to the poor weather again. Supposed to have an iconic Cerro Torre mountain towering behind and a glacier that spills into Laguna Torre.
The weather only started to clear up toward the end of our trek on the way back to El Chalten in the mid afternoon.
Ended Day 2 hike back in El Chalten and by this time, I was limping on every single step, unable to walk properly. Nevertheless I was really glad I managed to complete the entire trek. Decided to go back to La Tapera for the awesome steak, and had a delicious meal again.
Day 3 was a free day in the morning to explore more of El Chalten on our own, but I was not in the condition to do another trek, so I only walked around the small town, which was very charming at dawn basked in the beautiful light.
We had lunch at Maffia, where the freshly made pasta was pretty good.
A nice cafe with decent wifi around the corner from Hotel Senderos where we stayed. The wifi at the hotel was unforgivably lousy and impossible to even connect properly throughout our 3 night stay, including in the main lobby. So for that, I would not recommend anyone to stay there.
This minimal and nicely designed food store La Roti had excellent quiches and empanadas, great choice as packed lunch for hikes or afternoon snack.
We transferred via minivan to Hotel Patagonia Queen in El Calafate in the early evening, and was treated to the beautiful cloud formations along the long 3 hr drive.
Day 4 in Argentinian Patagonia was a guided boat tour operated by Southern Spirit to Los Glaciares National Park to see Perito Moreno Glacier, with some easy walking. No more hardcore trekking, more like a touristy excursion for families, thankfully.
The boat stopped at Bahia Toro for a quick discovery walk through the vegetation, nothing that wowed.
And then another stop at Cerro Negro for a short hike with some views of the glaciers in a distance. Probably planned for lazy tourists on boat tours to enjoy a ‘hiking’ experience, though I already overdosed for that. 🙂
And then the finale was going up close towards the Perito Moreno Glacier. It was the most impressive and largest one I have seen so for, comparing those I visited in New Zealand and Alaska. It is the third largest ice field in the world after Antartica and Greenland.
This 250 sqkm mass of ice is one of the most impressive sites in the world, its massive ice walls rose 74m over the water on average. Seeing giant chunks of ice ‘calving’ off this great wall and plummet down crashing into the lake below loudly was memorable. We alighted the boat and had some free time to climb up the viewing deck to explore the glaciers and huge ice field from various vantage points. Gorgeous!
Video clip of Perito Moreno Glacier
Another video of Perito Moreno Glacier
Back in El Calafate, we had dinner at the famous La Tablita restaurant. Its famed mixed parrilla, included steak, sausage and Patagonian lamb cooked on wood fire grill. Good meal.
Day 5 in Argentinian Patagonia was a free and easy half day before we flew off to Buenos Aires. Had breakfast at the delicious looking local bakery Panadería y Confitería Don Luis around the corner from our hotel, and the food did not disappoint.
Spent the morning exploring El Calafate which is a big touristy town, and strolled to nearby Reserve Laguna Nimez, which is a natural sanctuary for indigenous bird species, such as flamingos & swans.
… and that was a wrap for my unforgettable and breathtakingly beautiful Patagonia adventure!